On April 1st, I went on a walk with a friend to come home discovering that my mom bought packs and packs of strawberries. And it was no April Fools joke when my aunt and sister told me that my mom wanted me to make jam. So with the buds of fruit cluttering the white tiles of my mom’s kitchen floor, I had a job with which I’ve been sweetly tasked. I like making things anyway, and my sister reminded me about how I’ve been complaining this entire quarantine that I wanted to make something. So here was my chance (I’ve been making a lot of things since, thanks to this blessèd opportunity).
I think I like jam because my first memories of it would be the fresh batch my grandma would make when I was younger. The sticky smell would coat the air, encasing each of my breaths like caramel bubbles. Back then, I really took for granted how much effort my grandma would put into the foods she made, and jam that tasted best either hot or cold was one of these unacknowledged and overlooked prizes. It was a delicacy slipped into Preggo jars, stolen from the fridge and then returned with spoonfuls missing. The strawberry Jell-O in plastic containers you get at breakfast places and diners that you’d stuff into your mom’s bag never glided and spread in chunky pulp with the same finesse that grandma’s had. Now that I know the effort that goes into it, I can tell you, it takes a whole lotta love.
It takes so much time that my grandma emphasized how much work it was, but instead of heeding her warnings, I told her that once she taught me how to get the process going that she could leave me to do the rest. I didn’t know how to make jam, and even though I didn’t expect the hour of hot spewing caramel pricking my skin and clothes that was awaiting me, I was nonetheless excited to learn. So once we washed and cored all the strawberries (I think there were like five packs of them?), we dumped them into a huge silver pot and then searched for sugar. We had coconut sugar on hand, and it’s a healthier(?) sugar anyway, so both my grandma and I were just like, “Eh, fuck it.” And to my horror, I saw my grandma just DUMP one-and-a-half 16 oz. packs of coconut sugar in. Now, I have a huge love-hate relationship with sugar, and seeing so much of it in one food item made me flabbergasted (I never use this word, but there is no other word that can be more appropriate for my reaction to this). It was here that I learned that jam, yes, needs a shit ton of sugar. And honestly, hers is so goddamn delicious, I’m not going to dictate her recipe.
For my own personal reference, I asked her, “How do you know how much sugar to put in?”
Grandma: “When you do this so many times you just know. People who use tablespoons or teaspoons are amateur cooks.”
Me: “Okay but if I want to learn how to do it how do I know?”
Grandma: (thinking) “When you do it enough, you’ll learn and know.”
I laughed, and honestly I love this style of cooking. I’ve always admired my grandma’s way of not using measurements, because who the fuck has the time to use measuring cups? It really shows how much cooking is based on sense and intuition, and it teaches you to learn more about the food rather than the recipes itself. When you use measuring tools, it’s hard to accommodate for other factors, like weather, humidity, temperature, etc. Things that do affect the food and cooking process. And when masterchef grandma says you know when you know, then you goddamn know when you know.
I like to mix the strawberries and sugar together first and let it sit for 30-ish minutes. I read it in a manga once (What Did You Eat Yesterday?), but it’s not necessary, so you can skip this step and directly put them both into the pot. My grandma taught me that if you cook it on a higher heat, it cooks quicker and the color of the strawberries will maintain a redder hue, but it gets really hot. Like, the pot gets mad at you and spits liquid sugar at you, hot. If you do it on a lower heat, the cooking process is gentler, but you’ll have to sacrifice more time and the redder color since the sugar will caramelize more. This only applies to white sugar, though. Because we were using coconut sugar for this batch, its molasses content turned the color more brown instead of red even with high heat.
At first, the jam glistened beautifully. The transparent glaze on the strawberries looked like healthy candy. Around this time, my grandma and sister left me alone to do the rest of the cooking, and even when I was stirring this furious sweetness bubbling in its cauldron, I stood mesmerized, not minding the time this thing in front of me would consume.
After an hour of me stirring basically a pot of caramel with strawberry flavoring, the strawberries glazed in a chocolate hue meshed into a pulp. When the jam is reduced enough, glide your stirring utensil (I used a wooden paddle, thing. Idk what it’s called) along the bottom of the pot, and if the jam parts like the Red Sea of Moses, then you’re done, so turn off the heat because you’re basically a biblical legend that made a perfect pot of jam.
(Make sure to put your jam in a sterilized vessel! My mom boiled a bunch of mason jars and set them to dry before my sister bottled the jam.)
Edit: Also, at some point, make sure to squeeze a whole lemon into the jam. I’ve done it before cooking and after. If you do it before, the acid from the lemon isn’t as noticeable. If you do it after, maybe use a milder lemon like a meyer lemon so it’s not too acidic.